Our journey started in Cairns, where we were living at the time. We followed the National Route 1 through Kuranda up to Mareeba, then turned right onto the Mulligan Hwy. We stopped for our first night at a free camp in Mount Molloy (Rifle Range rest area). I hate to start this with a complaint, but there was one person there who decided to play horrid music really loud, ruining it for many people just trying to rest before the next days travel. Please be considerate of other people in public rest areas, you do not know what others are going through, or what they may have been through. If you want to listen to loud music, put your headphones on. 

Stops along the next stretch included Bob’s Lookout and Palmer River Roadhouse. At Lakeland we took a left onto the PDR.We drove through Laura and onto the Hann River Roadhouse where we spent out second night. I was a bit dubious of the resident Emu, but he was totally harmless. This was a lovely relaxing spot to stop for the night. There was plenty of wildlife (peacocks, ducks, goanna etc.) walking around which was lovely to see. We were advised that there were crocodiles in the river there. 

The third night was just past Coen at the Bend Campground. This was such a pretty spot. Please ensure you take only photographs and leave only footprints at ALL of these locations. You got to enjoy this area because those in front of you did the right things, so please repay the favour. The majority of cars crossed the river here to camp, but i did spot a camper or two on the road side of the river where they were set up for the night. If this is you, you can easily walk across the river and go for a walk should you choose to. It was a lovely spot for a swim after setting up camp. 

The forth night we pushed to get to Weipa, i had thrown my back out before we got to Hann River, and i was in a lot of pain and wanted either a chiropractor or a hospital. All the bumps from the road ended up helping somehow and by the time we got there i could walk again, so we felt confident that the trip would continue. I don’t know that we would have gone into Weipa had it not been for me being in pain. We reached Weipa in time to watch the sunset over the water. We ended up staying two nights at Weipa which enabled us to drive to Mapoon the next day. After we got back to the campground, we were told that we should have stopped off at Red Beach, apparently there are often crocodiles are lined up along the beach sunning themselves. 

The sixth night of our journey we stayed at Bramwell Station. If you don’t want to travel that far, there is another station along the route: Moreton Station is approximately 40 minutes south of Bramwell Station. We decided to attend the the dinner and entertainment night here, and i am glad we did. They were still following Covid protocols at that stage, so with a table full of food, items were served to each person as we went up table by table. The food was delicious and there was more than enough to feed the hungriest of travellers. While eating dinner (and after) live entertainment is provided; It was a fun evening and i do recommend stopping in as you pass through. For more INFO please see below under STATIONS.

A short drive up the road is Bramwell Junction Roadhouse. This is where the start of the Old Tele Track (OTT) is. Food and fuel is available here before you take off. Please see below section for our journey through the OTT.

Once back on the main road, it was straight up to the Jardine Ferry Crossing. There was no petrol at the petrol station (luckily we still had plenty of gas), so be prepared, just in case. The cost for the return ferry was under $200 (2021) this was for a car and trailer (camper); the cost covers all of your non-commercial camping while at the cape. Please check the link provided for current fees and charges. 

Injinoo was the first/next place that had petrol, a further 37kms north. It is a small Indigenous Community that has a pretty park on the ocean. We didn’t stay long as the goal was to get to the Seisia Caravan Park for the night. When we arrived at Seisia we finally had internet and phone reception and could contact our loved ones back home to let them know where we were. 

The next morning we took the ferry across to Thursday Island. We spent the day out there on a tour and explored a little in our free time. It was interesting to see Green Hill Fort, and experience some of the local Art and culture. 

The caravan park at Seisia had horses roaming through it so please don’t leave out any food that could be harmful to them. We were also told a story about some locals that ride horses through the campground during the night and steal what they can, jumping onto their horses and taking off in directions that cannot be followed by cars. I don’t know if the story is 100% true or not, but best to be sure to pack your camp up of an evening and keep you and your belongings safe, just in case. 

The following day we moved to Roonga Point where we free camped for two nights. You need to be fully self sufficient to camp there as there is nothing there but beach and bush. 

After setting up camp we travelled back to the main road to drive up to the tip (Pajinka). We got there about an hour before sunset. We walked out to the tip and got the obligatory photos, then sat on the beach (and in the car once the bugs came) to watch the sunset. 

The next morning we got up early to watch the sunrise on the east coast at Somerset lookout. It was really windy and the ocean was pretty rough, but it was still a nice experience. We then drove the Five Beaches (Nanthau Beach, Narau Beach, Saldogoo beach, Kilbie Beach, Congora Beach), a circuit track you can take along the east coast. You can see the extent of the rubbish being discarded into the ocean as you drive along this track; it was very sad and disheartening. We really need to do better people!

We checked out Jacky Jacky Creek and then drove down to Mutee Head and the Jardine River mouth. There were a few people camping down along the beach, if this is something you are interested in doing. Just before you reach Mutee Head, there’ll be another track off to the left beside a fenceline. At the top of the hill is Number 52 Radar Station, which operated for some two and a half years until the end of the war. 

Using the book mentioned above, we tracked down the DC3 planes that had crashed in 1945. Other wrecks were inspected including the remains of a Bristol Beaufort Mk VIII and a Curtiss P-40E Warhawk. There is information in the above-mentioned book that will help you in locating these if it is something you are interesting in seeing. 

We made it back to our camp at Roonga Point to watch the sunset on the west coast. There were a lot of bugs for the sunset, so we needed to sit in the car again. It was a really peaceful location albeit windy. 

We spent two nights here before starting the drive back down south.

The trip back was much quicker than the trip up. 

We drove straight to Bramwell Junction where we camped for the night, it was so good to have access to a washing machine and to be able to wash the sheets! From here we left the camper at the campground while we went back onto the OTT and had another quick look at a few spots. The next night was at Archer River. By this stage we were getting tired and weren’t overly interested in exploring. We were going to head through Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park and into Cooktown from here, but Michael started getting nose bleeds from all the dust, so we just wanted to get to Laura as quickly as possible and get off the dirt roads. We spent the night here in a motel where we washed so much dirt off our bodies, it was really nice to be in a real shower.

The next stop was Cooktown. This was just a quick visit, we went to Grassy Hill lookout and the Botanical Gardens, had a quick look through the Museum and then we were back on the road again. We spent the night at the Lions Den. This is a nice location next to a river; they had flushing toilets and hot showers, and they served food which meant no cooking! This was ticking a lot of boxes for the end of a trip. Our next stop was at Cow Bay where Michaels uncle has a property, by this stage the temperature had cooled and it was raining consistently. We now just wanted to get home. We did end up doing a night at the Daintree about a year later, so we did end up getting to explore the area a little; there are some nice boardwalk walks and the beach is beautiful. 

Arriving back at Cairns the first thing we did was drive through a drive through carwash. After resting for a day and unpacking the car, it ended up taking a full day to clean the car and trailer, and we were still finding red dust over the next few years! Definitely a trip to remember.